Five of Queen Elizabeth II’s most iconic outfits – from new royal exhibit

A centenary celebration through sartorial symbolism

A new exhibition at The King’s Gallery in Buckingham Palace highlights the enduring influence of Queen Elizabeth II’s wardrobe, which reflected her 70-year reign and the evolution of British identity. Curated to mark the centenary of her birth on 10 April, the display features 200 items—from clothing and accessories to hats and jewellery—showcasing her timeless elegance and the subtle messages embedded in her fashion choices.

Though her style was often understated and traditional, the Queen’s outfits became instantly identifiable, much like her presence as a constant figure in British life. Her off-duty attire, including tweed suits and tartan skirts, was practical yet imbued with symbolic meaning. Royal fashion expert Marian Kwei notes that these pieces conveyed “stability, dependence, soft power,” subtly reinforcing the monarchy’s role as a pillar of national unity.

The Harris tweed jacket: A symbol of British craftsmanship

One of the most recognizable ensembles is the Harris tweed jacket and Balmoral Tartan skirt, first worn by the Queen in the 1950s. Designed by her long-time dressmaker Norman Hartnell, this outfit became a staple of her casual looks. While its muted tones and feminine silhouette were modest, Kwei argues it carried a powerful message: “It’s ‘I’m in charge,’ without being too loud about it.”

“The fabrics used were intended to promote British fashion, excellence and production,” says Kwei. “Weaved into the outfit’s feminine cut and low-key tones are connotations of stability and soft power.”

The jacket’s traditional design also resonated with contemporary designers, as seen in Miu Miu’s 2024 Balmoral collection, which reinterpreted the Queen’s tartan kilts. Its enduring appeal lies in its balance of practicality and national pride, embodying a quiet yet consistent representation of British heritage.

The Coronation dress: A tapestry of unity

Among the exhibition’s highlights is the 1953 Coronation dress, crafted by Hartnell from silk sourced in Kent. Adorned with gold bugle beads, diamantés, and pearls, the gown featured intricate embroidery that symbolized the UK’s four nations. The Queen’s request to include emblems from Commonwealth countries—such as the Canadian maple leaf and India’s lotus flower—further underscored her global vision.

“The gown was pretty much a nod to Britain and the Commonwealth,” says Kwei. “It was an indication of the kind of Queen we had and how she reigned.”

The dress remains a standout for its blend of craftsmanship and symbolism, capturing the era’s aspirations and the Queen’s role as a unifying figure.

The 1957 green gown: A diplomatic enigma

In 1957, the Queen wore an elaborate sleeveless green gown during a state banquet for US President Dwight Eisenhower at the British Embassy in Washington DC. Designed by Hartnell, the dress was a striking choice but sparked debate over its symbolic intent. Exhibition curator Caroline de Guitaut remarks on its “apple crisp green” hue, suggesting it might reference American culture, while acknowledging its broader message of British sovereignty.

“It’s absolutely beautiful,” says de Guitaut, “but I can’t quite see an overt reference in it to be honest.”

Despite the ambiguity, the garment was a deliberate statement, reflecting the Queen’s strategic use of fashion to strengthen transatlantic ties during the Cold War. As author Elizabeth Holmes notes, her early reign saw her leveraging clothing to “establish herself in a new way, a glamorous young woman on a global stage dominated by men.”

These outfits, meticulously crafted and deeply symbolic, offer a window into the Queen’s ability to blend tradition with a subtle sense of modernity, ensuring her image remained both timeless and influential.