Chunk of glacier blocks route up Everest in peak climbing season

A massive, unstable ice block has halted the ascent path to Mount Everest from Nepal’s Base Camp, coinciding with the start of the high season in the Himalayas. This obstacle, located just beneath Camp 1, stands over 100 feet tall and poses a challenge for the climbers navigating the lower slopes. Known as a serac, the ice formation has left the “icefall doctors”—experts tasked with securing ropes and ladders—without viable alternatives. They anticipate delays, hoping the ice will disintegrate within days.

Delays disrupt seasonal plans

The blockage has thrown preparations for the spring climbing season into disarray, pushing schedules back by weeks. Climbers now face the risk of congestion at the summit, as the window for favorable weather remains critical. Purnima Shrestha, a renowned climber and photographer from Nepal, is currently acclimatizing for her sixth Everest attempt. “We usually move between Camp 1, Camp 2, and Camp 3 during this phase,” she explained to the BBC. “But delays have introduced the possibility of a bottleneck at the peak this year.”

“We haven’t found artificial ways to melt it so far, so we don’t have any options other than to wait for it melting and crumbling itself,” said Tshering Tenzing Sherpa, SPCC base camp co-ordinator.

The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC), responsible for maintaining ropes up to Camp 2 (8,848.86m), reached Base Camp three weeks ago. Normally, by this time in April, they would have cleared the route to Camp 3, but the serac remains an impediment approximately 600m below Camp 1. Ang Sarki Sherpa, a veteran icefall doctor, noted that the lower section of the serac is showing signs of weakening. “We arrived on 10 April. The crevasse below is melting,” he stated. Sherpas on the scene reported further thawing, suggesting the ice may collapse soon.

Alternative strategies under consideration

Nepal’s Department of Tourism is exploring solutions, including airlifting teams to Camp 2. Ram Krishna Lamichhane, the department’s director general, mentioned plans to transport rope-fixing crews via helicopter. “We will wait for the ice to melt at the obstruction site before proceeding,” he said. Weather forecasts suggest ideal conditions will persist until late May, giving Sherpas hope the route to Camp 2 could be restored in days, with summit access potentially following shortly after.

Despite the Iran war’s influence on fuel costs and travel, a significant number of climbers are still expected to attempt Everest this year. Dambar Parajuli, president of the Expedition Operators’ Association, highlighted that while flights have slightly reduced participation, mountaineering activity remains largely unaffected. The Department of Tourism reported 367 climbing permits issued so far, predominantly to Chinese climbers. This contrasts with last year, when over 700 individuals reached the summit from Nepal’s side, compared to just 100 from China.

Since 2019, when images of climbers queuing on Everest gained global attention, Nepal has implemented stricter permit rules and raised prices. This year, climbing fees for foreign nationals have increased to $15,000 from $11,000. Purnima Shrestha warned that even if the route opens soon, the climbing window might narrow. “We still have time, but many climbers could be trying to reach the summit in a short span,” she noted, emphasizing the pressure on the season’s limited window.