Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art

A Vibrant Exhibition Revisits the Legacy of a Pioneering Designer

At London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, a new exhibition opens its doors on Saturday, March 28, offering a deep dive into the visionary work of Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli. This display highlights how her avant-garde approach transformed fashion into a form of artistic expression, challenging traditional norms and redefining what clothing could represent.

The show, titled “Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art,” brings together her iconic creations with the modern designs of Daniel Roseberry, the current creative director of Schiaparelli. Together, they demonstrate the enduring power of bold aesthetics to disrupt cultural expectations. Can a striking outfit alter our perceptions of beauty or the function of attire? Schiaparelli’s work proves that it can — and her innovations continue to inspire today.

Schiaparelli, born into an aristocratic family in Rome, entered the fashion world without formal training. Her designs embraced the unexpected, often described as “shocking” or “surprising.” While contemporaries like Coco Chanel and Christian Dior focused on simplicity or grandeur, Schiaparelli reveled in the unusual. Her 1938 monkey fur boots, for instance, embodied a sense of rebellion against convention.

“Elsa Schiaparelli was deeply connected to the creative process, not just borrowing Surrealist imagery but engaging in true collaboration with artists like Man Ray, Jean Cocteau, and Salvador Dali,” explains Sonnet Stanfill, the V&A’s senior curator of fashion. “Her designs weren’t merely decorative; they were a dialogue between art and wearability.”

Her ability to merge surrealism with practicality made her pieces stand out in pre-WWII Europe. Questions like “What if a shoe were a hat?” or “What if a jacket featured horse-shaped buttons?” reflected her playful yet profound vision. These ideas resonated in Paris, where traditional aesthetics dominated, and her work became a symbol of artistic defiance.

Roseberry, Schiaparelli’s modern heir, carries forward this legacy. His pieces — such as a couture clutch holding a robot baby or a gown adorned with bead clusters — echo her fearless creativity. The exhibition underscores how unconventional styles can push boundaries, moving fashion beyond mere utility into a realm of cultural commentary and innovation.