Dressed for succession: What Kim Ju Ae’s outfits tell us about North Korea

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Dressed for Succession: What Kim Ju Ae’s Outfits Reveal About North Korea’s Leadership Plans

Dressed for succession – November 2022 marked a notable moment in North Korea’s public narrative when a photograph of Kim Jong Un, the country’s supreme leader, appeared alongside a well-dressed young girl. The image, captured in front of a towering intercontinental ballistic missile, depicted Kim Ju Ae, his daughter, in a sharp black trouser suit and a white padded jacket. At just nine years old, she made her debut in state propaganda, a move that immediately sparked speculation about her potential role in the Kim dynasty’s future. Her appearance, both deliberate and striking, hinted at a strategy to position her as a key figure in the regime’s political landscape.

From Casual to Command: The Evolution of Kim Ju Ae’s Style

Since her initial public appearance, Kim Ju Ae’s wardrobe has undergone a transformation, reflecting her growing significance within North Korea’s power structure. Analysts suggest that her fashion choices are not merely aesthetic but a calculated effort to project authority and readiness for leadership. Her hairstyles, once simple, have become more intricate, and her clothing now includes elements that blend elegance with a sense of strength. This shift mirrors the grooming process of other North Korean leaders, where appearance was used to solidify their status as heirs to the revolutionary legacy.

South Korea’s spy agency has reportedly identified Kim Ju Ae as a likely successor to Kim Jong Un, citing her increasing visibility in state events. She has been frequently photographed with her father at missile launches, military parades, and even on international trips. These moments, carefully orchestrated, underscore her integration into the political elite. However, her sartorial choices have drawn particular attention, with some observers pointing to specific garments as symbolic of her preparation for power. The use of leathers, furs, and the iconic “rooster” hairstyle—characterized by its bold, upward-curving bangs—has been interpreted as a signal of her evolving role.

The Propaganda Department’s Role in Shaping a Leader’s Image

Kim Ju Ae’s attire is believed to be meticulously managed by the North Korean government’s Propaganda and Agitation Department, a key institution in crafting the image of the ruling family. This department has long played a pivotal role in legitimizing leadership transitions by aligning the appearance of the next generation with the icons of the past. For instance, Kim Jong Un himself adopted the look of his grandfather, Kim Il Sung, during his early years in power, reinforcing his claim to the revolutionary legacy. Similarly, Kim Ju Ae’s formal suits and skirts resemble those of her mother, Ri Sol Ju, creating a visual link to the current leadership while subtly distancing her from the masses.

“As Ju Ae is still very young, her age could be seen as a potential weakness for a future leader. It appears the regime is dressing her in formal outfits similar to those worn by her mother as a way to mask her youth and project a more mature image,” says Cheong Seong-chang, deputy director of the Sejong Institute.

Her wardrobe also serves as a tool for differentiation. While North Koreans generally wear modest, utilitarian clothing, Kim Ju Ae’s selection of Western-designed garments, such as leather jackets and fur coats, signals her elevated status. These items, rare among the general population, are not only a display of wealth but also a way to symbolize her authority. Cheong notes that the use of luxury brands like Christian Dior—specifically a $1,900 black padded jacket she wore in 2023—further underscores this effort to distinguish her from ordinary citizens.

Image Replication: A Legacy of Power and Control

North Korea’s leaders have historically relied on “image replication” to maintain their grip on power. This strategy involves mirroring the appearance of previous generations to evoke a sense of continuity and tradition. Kim Jong Un, for example, initially projected the image of his grandfather, Kim Il Sung, who was revered as a near-divine figure. His resemblance to Kim Il Sung during early public appearances helped bridge the gap between his youth and the perceived wisdom of the elder leader, creating a seamless transition of power.

Kim Il Sung’s influence remains deeply embedded in North Korean culture, where his image is ubiquitous. His legacy is not just political but symbolic, representing the country’s revolutionary ideals and the Kim family’s unbroken rule. The Propaganda and Agitation Department has been instrumental in perpetuating this legacy, ensuring that each new leader is presented as a continuation of the past. This approach is particularly crucial for figures like Kim Ju Ae, whose youth might otherwise be seen as a liability. By aligning her style with the iconography of the Kim dynasty, the regime aims to reinforce her legitimacy and prepare the public for her eventual rise to prominence.

Western Fashion as a Political Statement

Kim Ju Ae’s exposure to Western fashion is another layer of her strategic cultivation. Her wardrobe includes items that are not only stylish but also convey a sense of modernity and strength. For example, the leather jackets she has worn in recent years are described as “strong in impression and casual,” suitable for environments where a rugged appearance is advantageous, such as military bases. This contrasts with the traditional, more conservative styles typically favored by North Korean officials, highlighting her unique position within the hierarchy.

Her clothing choices also create a visual parallel with her father. Kim Jong Un, known for his preference of black leather jackets and trench coats, has often been seen in similar attire. This twinning with her father may serve to establish her as a natural successor, blending her youthful energy with the seasoned authority of the leader. Yet, it also reinforces the idea that her image is being shaped to align with the Kim family’s aesthetic, ensuring that she is recognized as part of the ruling lineage.

Contrasting Trends: The Fashion Divide in North Korea

Kim Ju Ae’s opulent wardrobe stands in stark contrast to the tightening restrictions on the rest of the population. In 2020, North Korea passed the Reactionary Ideology and Culture Rejection Act, which aimed to block external cultural influences, including Western fashion. This law reflects the regime’s broader efforts to control public perception and ensure that only approved styles are visible to the masses. However, Kim Ju Ae’s appearances with luxury items suggest that the government is selectively allowing Western aesthetics into the leadership sphere, using them to elevate her status while maintaining strict control over the broader population’s clothing choices.

Her 2024 appearance in a partially see-through blouse at a capital residential area completion ceremony further illustrates this trend. The garment, which revealed her arms, was likely chosen to convey a sense of modernity and confidence, contrasting with the more conservative attire of ordinary citizens. This deliberate contrast reinforces the idea that she is not just a future leader but a symbol of the regime’s power and its ability to blend tradition with contemporary influences to maintain authority. As her wardrobe continues to evolve, it remains a powerful indicator of her place in North Korea’s political future.

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