Cosmeticorexia: How girls are falling down a skincare rabbit hole
Cosmeticorexia: How Girls Are Falling Into a Skincare Obsession
Cosmeticorexia – At the age of 13, Ellie-May has become a prominent figure in the world of digital beauty, with her TikTok account boasting over 330,000 followers. Her journey began during lockdown, when she started sharing videos of her skincare routine with friends, transforming a casual hobby into a full-time venture. Now, her family relies on the income generated by their content creation, which spans multiple platforms including Facebook, TikTok, YouTube, and Snapchat. Ellie-May’s enthusiasm for products like toners, serums, and “glow-boosting” creams has made her a household name, but it also highlights a growing trend among young girls who are increasingly prioritizing skincare over other aspects of their lives.
The Rise of Early Beauty Influencers
Ellie-May’s story is not unique. Across social media, thousands of children as young as three or four are now showcasing their own beauty routines, often using terms like “glow-boosting” or “luminous” to describe products they’ve barely tested. The phenomenon of “get ready with me” or “after school” videos has exploded in popularity, where young girls blend their daily tasks with cosmetic application, sometimes adding layers of products while discussing their plans for the day. These videos, filled with vibrant makeup tutorials and intricate skincare steps, are creating a culture where flawless skin is seen as an attainable goal—no matter the age.
What started as a playful activity for Ellie-May has evolved into a serious business. Her family earns more than £50,000 annually from their social media efforts, with Sophie, her mother and a parent to five other children, noting how the content creation has reshaped their lives. “Being content creators has transformed our lives,” Sophie said during a video call, describing the shift from casual sharing to professional influence. The demand for their expertise has grown so rapidly that even platforms like TikTok, which initially seemed like a fun space for teens, are now hosting young creators who speak to audiences far beyond their own.
The Evolution of Skincare Marketing
The skincare market has seen a dramatic shift in recent years, moving from basic products like cleansers and scrubs to more complex routines involving serums, toners, and anti-ageing treatments. Girls today are being introduced to sophisticated skincare regimens at an early age, often mimicking the habits of older women who have spent decades marketing the idea that aging is a flaw to be corrected. Brands such as Drunk Elephant, Bubble, and P. Louise have capitalized on this trend, offering products tailored to young consumers while also positioning themselves as part of a broader movement toward “clean” and “scientific” beauty.
Drunk Elephant, for example, has distanced itself from the youth market, emphasizing its commitment to educating customers on responsible product use. A spokesperson for the brand stated that it is not “youth-focused,” instead aiming to appeal to a more mature audience. However, the presence of themed skincare kits—like those inspired by K-Pop Demon Hunters—shows how companies are adapting their messaging to capture the imaginations of younger demographics. These kits promise “glow-boosting” results and are marketed as essential for achieving a radiant, youthful appearance, further embedding the idea that skin imperfections are something to be fixed immediately.
Psychological and Societal Implications
As the industry expands, concerns about its impact on young girls are mounting. Experts argue that this relentless focus on flawless skin is creating a new form of obsession, one they’ve dubbed “cosmeticorexia.” This term, coined by dermatologists and academics, describes an unhealthy fixation on achieving perfect skin from a young age, often leading to excessive use of cosmetics and a diminished self-image. The pressure to look “just right” is now being applied to children before they’ve even reached adolescence, raising questions about the long-term effects on their mental health and body perception.
Brooke Erin Duffy, an associate professor and social media researcher at Cornell University, explains how this shift is reshaping the target audience. “Women in their 30s and 40s have long been targeted by skincare companies, told that aging is a problem and sold a solution,” Duffy said. “But now, girls as young as eight are being subjected to the same expectations, often without the same level of awareness or choice.” This change is not just about marketing—it’s about the way beauty is being taught to the next generation. A survey by Pai, a skincare brand, revealed that nearly half of nine-to-12-year-olds use multiple products weekly, with many citing the desire to fix perceived “problem skin” as a motivation.
For some girls, the influence of social media has turned skincare into a ritual that feels both necessary and compulsion-driven. Ellie-May, now 13, admitted that her routine is more than just a personal preference; it’s a part of her identity. “I love, love, love, love, love this toner,” she once said in a video, her excitement reflecting a deeper cultural shift. This kind of enthusiasm is not just about aesthetics—it’s about the social validation that comes with appearing flawless, even in childhood.
Expert Insights and Industry Growth
Dr. Giovanni Damiani, an Italian dermatologist from the University of Milan, has been studying the effects of this early cosmetic obsession. After noticing a pattern of compulsive product use among his younger patients, he conducted research involving 55 individuals aged 8 to 14. His findings suggest that many girls are experiencing a form of anxiety related to their appearance, often prioritizing skincare over other activities. “There’s a marked shift,” Damiani noted, “from targeting older women to creating a new generation of beauty-conscious children who see skin imperfections as something to be corrected immediately.”
As the market continues to grow, it has become a multi-billion-pound industry with no signs of slowing down. The rise of influencer culture, combined with the accessibility of digital platforms, has made it easier than ever for young girls to become brand ambassadors. Some influencers describe themselves as “ambassadors,” while others see their routines as a way to connect with peers and gain attention. This dynamic is shaping not only the beauty industry but also the way girls view themselves, with many equating self-worth to their skincare success.
The question remains: is this trend simply harmless fun, or is it conditioning girls to believe they are flawed from the start? With more than 330,000 followers, Ellie-May’s success story is emblematic of a broader movement that is redefining beauty for the younger generation. As brands continue to market products with the promise of perfection, the line between self-care and obsession is becoming increasingly blurred. For parents like Sophie, the transformation has been both exciting and concerning, as they watch their children navigate a world where skincare is as essential as schoolwork.
The Future of Beauty and Self-Perception
While the trend has brought financial benefits to some families, it also raises critical questions about the psychological toll on young girls. Cosmeticorexia, as defined by experts, is not just about using products—it’s about the emotional attachment to achieving a specific look, often at the expense of natural beauty. The rapid growth of the industry, fueled by social media, is creating a cycle where girls are exposed to idealized standards of beauty from an early age, influencing their self-esteem and perception of what is “normal.”
As Ellie-May continues to share her journey, her story serves as a window into a larger cultural shift. The skincare rabbit hole, once a niche interest, is now a mainstream obsession, with girls as young as eight leading the way. This evolution challenges us to reconsider how beauty is being taught to the next generation, and whether the pressure to look perfect is shaping their identities before they’ve even fully formed. The industry’s growth is undeniable, but so too is the need for a deeper conversation about the messages it sends to young girls about their worth and appearance. What was once a fun hobby for a child may now be a lifelong pursuit of flawlessness, driven by the allure of social validation and the promise of beauty through products.