Headscarf with a Beret: Muslim Designers Showcase Floral Dresses and Boxy Streetwear in Paris

A New Trend in the Heart of France

Paris has launched its inaugural Modest Fashion Week, featuring nearly 30 designers who presented collections blending loose, long-cut attire with headscarves. These styles reflect the clothing choices of many Muslim women adhering to their religious principles, which often include covering arms, legs, and occasionally hair. Hosting the event in France carries symbolic weight, as hijabs and other religious garments have often been in the spotlight, with restrictions in specific public spaces.

Designers Reimagining Modesty

Rukaiya Kamba, Nigerian designer behind Flaunt Archive, emphasized that choosing Paris for her collection was a deliberate act. As models strutted down the runway, some young observers shared with the BBC how the event highlighted a shifting French cultural landscape. France is home to approximately 5-7.5 million Muslims, and Özlem Şahin, who leads the organization behind Modest Fashion Week, called Paris “one of the leading modest fashion capitals in Europe.”

Floral Elegance and Nature-Inspired Aesthetics

At Hôtel Le Marois, a mansion near the Champs-Élysées, the focus leaned toward florals and nature tones. Hicran Önal, founder of Turkey’s Miha brand, wore a printed floral tulle dress, stating that romance was central to her collection. Her designs combined water-like teals and blues with soft floral pinks, creating a striking contrast. Indonesian designer Nada Puspita echoed this inspiration but with a more minimalist approach. Aisa Hassan, creator of Asiyam, drew from warmer natural shades—deep greens and autumnal reds—while incorporating a bucket hat that symbolized her Australian roots.

“Romance was key to my collection,” said Hicran Önal, founder of Miha. Her outfits mixed water-like teals and blues against natural floral pinks.

“I was inspired by nature, but with cleaner lines,” noted Nada Puspita, Indonesian designer. Aisa Hassan added, “My references were warmer—deep greens and autumnal reds. The bucket hat is a nod to my heritage.”

Modest Fashion Gains Global Momentum

The modest fashion industry has seen rapid expansion, with global spending projected to surpass $400bn by next year, according to DinarStandard. Originally tailored for Muslim women, the trend now resonates with diverse groups, including other religious communities and secular consumers. French brand Soutoura and Nour Turbans showcased nylon, black, jewel-toned, and boxy pieces influenced by Gen Z streetwear. These designs mirror the modest fashion endorsed by sportswear leaders like Nike and Adidas.

“Having the event in Paris fills me with pride,” shared Fatou Doucouré, founder of Soutoura. “It shows Muslim women can embrace any role in society.”

Breaking Barriers in a Secular Nation

France’s secularism, or laïcité, has historically limited religious symbols in public institutions. The headscarf was banned in state-run schools over two decades ago, and abayas later faced similar restrictions. Yet, this week’s event marked a turning point for many. Attendees like a young Malian-French woman, who once faced discrimination for wearing a headscarf, felt renewed optimism. “Seeing a major show here made me want to stay in France,” she said. “My hijab no longer feels like the main topic of political debate.”

“I used to feel my hijab limited me,” said the Malian-French attendee. “But today, I see it as a symbol of pride, not restriction.”

From Ban to Celebration

Turkish brand Mayovera introduced burkinis—hybrids of “burka” and “bikini”—covering all but the face, hands, and feet. While these are prohibited in most French public pools, they are permitted on beaches. The event not only celebrated modest fashion but also challenged perceptions, with attendees noting a shift in how people view religious attire in everyday life.